Adventure on the Roof of the World
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caption : Mt Kailash (6714m) 冈�波�峰
Throughout Asia, stories exist of a great mountain in the centre of the world, from which flows the four sacred rivers that give life to the area that the river passes through. This myth originates from the Hindu epics, which speak of Mt Meru, home of the gods - as a vast column 84,000 leagues high, its summit kissing the heavens and its franks composed of gold, crystal, ruby and lapis lauzli.
These Hindu accounts placed Mt Meru somewhere in the towering Himalaya but with time, Mt Meru increasing become associated with Mt Kailash. Although Mt Kailash is only 6714m, nobody have ever make it to the summit (although some nearly make it to the top but gave it up due to religious pressure) so no one can confirm if gods really reside there.
caption : The white coat of Mt Kailash after the snowstorm
Mt Kailash does indeed lie at the centre of an area that is the key to the drainage system of the Tibetan plateau. Four of the great rivers of the Indian subcontinent does indeed originate here. The Karnali, which feed into the Ganges (south), the Indus (north), the Sutlej (west) and the Brahmaputra aka Yarlung Tsangpo (east).
The four walls of Mt Kailash matches the cardinal points of the compass and its southern face is marked by the famous long vertical cleft stopping halfwaydown the horizontal lines on the rock face. This cleft is suppose to resemble a swastika (a Buddhist symbol of spiritual strength). But I find it to resemble a step ladder instead.
Mt Kailash has long been an object for worship for four major religions. For the Hindus, it's the abode of Lord Shiva. To the Buddhist, it's the abode of Demchok (a warthful manifestation of Sakyamuni). To the Jains, the mountain is the site at which their first saint was emancipated and to the ancient Bonpo religion of Tibet, Mt Kailash was the sacred Yungdrung Gutseg (Nine stacked Swastika Mountain) upon which their founder Shenrab alighted from heaven.
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caption : Mt Kailash from Chiu Monastery
The highlight of our trip was the 3 days trek round the Mt Kailash. I was really looking forward to it but the coughing from Mt Everest Base Camp and the lethargic feeling did not get any better. I was still coughing sputum with traces of blood and had to stop and rest more often.
My team, the guide and the driver were worried about my conditions and were persuading me against the trek. I was determined to go so I requested the guide to rent a horse for me. While staying at the guesthouse, my condition worsen, I was turning purple. There was no mirror so I couldn't look at myself but my fingers were turning purple. My friend again persuaded me against going, so I called home to Mrs SevenEleven and decided to give up after that.
caption : Darchen (4560m) 塔钦 after the 1st day snow storm
Darchen was the access to Mt Kailash, the starting point of the trek but I was not to be with the team. Perhap it was my "bad karma" that I was unable to do the trek. While they were away, I went to look for a doctor to look into my condition. The private clinic was a dirty looking, dimly lit house next to the police station. The doctor was an old People's Liberation Army Medical Officer. I was diagnosed with altitude sickness and was put on an infusion drip. It cost me RMB $440 or equivalent to SGD $100 but I was well after that.
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caption : Begining of the 52 km trek to Mt Kailash kora
The following photographs are taken by my friends who "make it" to the kora. As you can see, the weather was fine and the temperature was some 8 degrees, I think. The entourage consisted of 2 yaks, a yak manager, 2 lady porters, a horse, a horseman and our guide, just for the 3 trekkers.
caption : part of the entourage in the trek
The first day was suppose to be the easiest and offer the best view of Gurla Mandata (7728m) and the other mountain ranges in Nepal and India. It will take us 3 days (8 - 9 hours of walk per day) to cover the kora but it only take the Tibetan 14 hours to complete the kora.
caption: My horse that nobody wants to ride
Things went fine until it started to rain (in Darchen too). Temperature started to drop drastically and the rain turned ice and snow. Although it had ever happend that the temperature went to minus 30 degrees, October is supposed to be the best period of the year to visit Mt Kailash.
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Fantastic. The sky-burial in particular interests me, because it's similar to how I want to go after I'm dead. They can salvage whatever healthy organs I have and then just return me to nature.
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caption : Good Morning!!!
It was snowing when they reached the first check point, Dirapuk Monastery guesthouse (some 4900m). By night fall, the temperature at Darchen had fall to minus 10 degrees. What greeted them outside the monastery guesthouse the next morning was a sight both to "wow" and to worry.
caption : Wild Tibetan gazelle caught in the snow storm.
Snow had reached knee level deep and the snow was still falling. We were all not dress to weather a snow storm. Although our weatherproof, double layer thick clothing kept us warm, our not weatherproof jeans and slacks send chills down our spine when it get wet stepping on the snow. Furthermore the lady porters were wearing sandals only. They were so cold they begged us for whatever plastic bags we have so that it can keep water away from their feet.
The second day trek was suppose to be even tougher with a 550m ascent and a 600m descent. Many of the other trekkers group, decided to abandon the kora so they all braved the wind and snowfall to return to Darchen, our base camp. Only one Russian team braved on to complete the kora.
caption : last look at Mt Kailash
My friend was so cold and tired, he could not walked, thanks to the horse, he made it back safe and sound. He was trembling when he reached the guesthouse and I had to give him a double layer blanket to keep him warm. Come to think of it, was it really my "bad karma" that I could not make it?
Five days later when we were rested and well again, We wanted to do the Mt Kailash kora again but no porter was willing to go as the snow in Dorlma-pass (5630m) was already chest deep. I had to finally give up for good.
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Originally posted by S.H.:
Fantastic. The sky-burial in particular interests me, because it's similar to how I want to go after I'm dead. They can salvage whatever healthy organs I have and then just return me to nature.
I thank you on behalf of all those who will benefit from it and thank you for following my thread
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caption : Lake Manasarovar (4575m) Mapham Yum-tso - Victorious Lake -washing the dust off our vehicle in the lake.
According to the Hindu legend, Lake Manasarovar was created in the mind of Lord Brahma thus the name Mana (the Mind) and sarovar (the lake). It was believed that the devas would descend from heaven and bathe in it. Indian yogis recommended between 3am to 5 am in the morning as the ideal time to bathe in the lake as the temperature of the air and the lake would be about the same and you won't catch a cold bathing at that time or you may just knock in gods if you are lucky.
Indian poets have described the water in Lake Manasarovar to be like "pearl" and that drinking it would erase "the sin of a hundred lifetime" but we have been told that before that will happen, you would probably have to find the nearest toilet unless you have it boil before drinking. Nevertheless, the sapphire-blue lake against the snow-capped mountain is still a welcome scene.
caption : Satellite view of Lake Manasarovar (right) and Lake Rahshastal (left) with Mt Kailash in its background.
According to Hindu mythlogy, this Lake Rakshastal was created by the demon King Ravana (of the Ramayana fame) for the express purpose of garnering superpowers through acts of devotion and meditation to the Lord Shiva who was presiding on Mount Kailash. It was upon the banks of a special island in this lake that he would make daily offering with one of his ten heads as a sacrifice to please the Lord Shiva. Finally, on the tenth day, Lord Shiva was moved enough by his devotion and granted Ravana his wish to obtain superpowers. This lake is set as a contrast to the holy god-created Lake Manasarovar. However, despite its notoriety, Lake Rakshastal bears no less beauty than other lakes in Tibet.
caption : Water flowing between the 2 lakes via Ganga-chu channel augur well for the Tibetan people.
This 2 lakes are joined togther by a natural channel, called the Ganga-chu. On rare occasions, water flows through the channel from Lake Manasarvoar to Lake Rakshastal, and these augur well for the Tibetan people. It is indeed good news that water have been flowing between the two lakes for the recent years.
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caption : Chiu Monastery on top of the craggy hill.
Sitting right on top of this craggy hill is this Chiu Gompa, a small monastery. Right on top of this hill offers a fabulous view of the lake and Mt Kailash. On a clear day, you can even catch a glimpse of Gurla Mandata (7728m), the huge peak in Nepal.
caption : Chiu Monastery overlooking Lake Manasarvor
caption : Beautifully carved mani stones (with "Om Mani Padme Hom" words) laid beside the stupas
caption : Gurla Mandata Peak
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Nice.
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got take food pics or not ? ...
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Originally posted by Fatum:
got take food pics or not ? ...
got...tsampa, hui enthic ramien, tibetan noodles, hand grabbed mutton etc....oh and Lhasa Beer brewed in Lhasa and home brewed barley beer too -
A little bit of the photographs of the snow storm and the aftermath effect.
caption: thick snow covering up the vehicles
caption : Darchen town whitewashed within a night
Caption : Many birds were frozen to death because they were unable to find a shelter on time.
caption : Er....where's the road?
caption : In the begining, man was created , then created.....where's my woman?
caption : snow covering the shore of Lake Manasarvor
caption : No, my hand wasn't shaking during the shot. The wind was howling and sending the snow flying like what you have seen in those documentaries programme like National Geographics on North Pole.
caption : A large puddle of water turning into ice within a night. Even the water lake was freezing.
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caption : Travelling westward towards Tsada & Guge - The Lost Kingdom
Leaving the snow storm, we drove westward towards Tsada. However the roads were covered with snow and plus the guide pessimistic views, we too became pessimistic if we could reach Tsada. We travelled more than an hour on the road without meeting any vehicles from either directions.
caption : Erosion on these rocks created these beautiful design on its faces
Things became gloomy but our driver insisted on pushing forward. Thanks to the driver positive attitude, we finally met an oncoming vehicle who confirmed that the road ahead was not blocked. Driving another 4 hours, we were greeted with a totally different landscape, a desert scene.
caption : Erosion on these rocks are caused by the surface of the soft rocks
Here's a little history of Western Tibet. Most of Tibet history began in Yarlung Valley after the 7th century. However it is thought that the Shangshung kingdom of the western Tibet probably ruled Tibet several century before that. Bon religion was suppose to originate from here.
caption : All these soft rock still stands because of the dry weather here
In the 9th century, one of the sons of King Langdharma (anti-Buddhist) assassinated him in Lhasa and fled to western Tibet. He then established his Guge Kingdom in Tsparang. Guge Kingdom, through its contact with India led to the revival of Buddhism on the Tibetan plateau.
caption : These caves on the rock became shelters for travellers travelling the Tibet-India trade route
However in the 16th century, a Jesuit missionary who thought that Guge Kingdom was a long lost Christian civilisation came to Guge. He was disappointed when he found that it was a mistake but was suprised at the tolerance and respect for his Christian faith. The king even allowed the Jesuit to set up a mission in his kingdom. This outraged the lamas who plotted with the Ladakhis to lay seige to Tsparang. The city fell and the king was overthrown but Guge Kingdom too collapsed and was lost in history for a long long time.
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Beri beri nice!!!!!!
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caption : Tholing Monastery 3650m
Tholing was founded by Richen Zangpo, the greatest translator of Sanskrit in the 10th century. It remained a function monastery until 1966 when it was forced to shut down by the Red Guards. All of its statues were destoryed but the mural painting on the wall escaped destruction.
caption : the work of the Red Guards in 1966 Culture Revolution
Not too far away from here is a small Chinese restaurant from Sichuan who could cook Cantonese meal. This was where I had the best meal since arriving Tibet. In fact it was so good that I had 3 meals here, once driving more than an hour just to come back here for the meal.
caption : Notice the influence of Kashmiri and Nepali in the art form
The best breakfast was watery porridge with tea-leaf eggs and meat bao. A superb breakfast for a cold morning accompanied by pop songs from the military camp opposite it.
caption : Beautiful painting on the wall
Unfortunately, not all are able to appreciate the treasure they have with them. We picked this piece of torn scripture thrown away at the roof-top. Although I didn't understand what it is, by looking at the gold inked writing, you can guess the reverence of these scriptures.
caption : A piece of treasure thrown away by those who could not appreciate it.
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caption : Tsparang - the Lost Kingdom of Guge
Eversince the downfall of the Guge Kingdom in the 16th century, the citadel had been falling into ruin and if you didn't know the history of Guge Kingdom, you would have thought that these building had grown out from the rocks.
caption : Lotsang Lhakhang - the ruined chortens and chapel
What is left here are the most beautiful mural painting inside the chapels. These murals were built in the 15th century and were repainted in the in the 17th century.
caption : The lone tree within the vinicity
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you're so lucky!!
i hope i'll get a chance to go one day too...=p
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Originally posted by udontknowme:
you're so lucky!!
i hope i'll get a chance to go one day too...=p
don't just hope. put it to action. -
Nice.
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caption : Mural painting with a beautiful story
This story was about a monkey making an offering to Sakyamuni Buddha. When the Buddha accepted the offering, the monkey was so happy. It climbed up the tree and jumped with joy but accidentally fall off the tree into the well below the tree. The monkey was thus drowned. It was said that the monkey was immediately reborn as a deva in his next life.
caption : Giving the first discourse at Saranath - Deers Park
This is the painting of the Buddha giving the first discourse - The Turning of the Wheel in Saranath deers park.
caption : Mural art with influences from Indian, Chinese and Mongol
caption : Notice the brilliant colours on the painting? It is easy to forget that these painting are over 350 years old.
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caption : Climbing the steps, we reached these ruined monastic quarters
Climbing up hundreds metre up, we reach these ruined quarters with caves used for meditation.
caption : contemplation
Notice how dry and barren this place is? It makes me wonder how such a barren place can be a major civilisation in the past. What we can guess was that being a trade route between India and Tibet during that period was the reason for the flourishing civilisation.
caption : A view of the lone tree from the mountain top
caption : The Summer Palace with a balcony offering a panaroma view of the mountains and the valley
Standing alone and looking out of the balcony, a certain feeling arose in me. Can you imagine that if you were the king standing on the balcony watching the enemies troops in battle formation marching toward you? You would need to put the fear of death away to be able to command your army.
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Tsparang being the last destination, its time for us to head home. After so many days, I was starting to miss mrs seveneleven (I get credit points if she see this
) and a little bit home sick. But we still needed days to travel eastward before heading to Nepal for our flight home. Still there were plenty of beautiful sceneries and landscapes along the way back.
caption : Caves and ruins along the Sutlej River in Tsparang
caption : Queer shaped rocks standing on Sutlej River - Tsparang
caption : Himalayan ranges along the Tibet-Nepal border - Tsparang
caption : Snow-capped mountains between Tsada and Darchen
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caption : Sand dunes - Paryang (4750m)
The reason why we gave up staying overnight in Paryang is that it is often being invaded by sand dunes whenever there is a strong wind. If that were to happen, vehicles may become stuck in the dunes.
caption : Yarlung Tsangpo River (Brahmaputra), fresh clean water at its source.
饮水�� - This chinese words mean "when drinking water, remember it source". Often these words are reminders to the younger generations to remember the effort of their forefathers. But here, I wished that it serve to remind the people that by polluting the water at the upper stream, the people at the down stream will be affected, so do think for the others as well or our next generations will be the victim of our own doing.
caption : Rivers that passes through the populated areas are often polluted with rubbish by the residents and chemicals by the industries.
On the way to Zhangmu, we passed by this equally beautiful turquoise lake, the Peiku-tso (4591m). From the lakeshore, we were able to catch the view of Mt. Shishapangma(8012m), the second highest mountain in Tibet. The other ranges are the Nepal's Langtang ranges.
caption : Mountains beside the beautiful turquoise Peiku-tso (4591m)
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caption : Tong-la pass (4950m)
After crossing this pass, its a quick descend of 1200m to the town of Nyalam (3750m). From here onward, the landscape changed from snow-capped mountains and barren lands to that of greeneries.
caption : Nyalam town (3750m)
It was already late evening when we reached Nyalam. Nyalam is a rainy and humid on street town with a Chinese facade. The huge rock on perching above the building ground seems pretty risky and that the rock may just fall on the building anytime. I don't want to be there if it ever happened.
caption : Zhangmu town (2250m) with all the highrise building
From Nyalam, its another quick descend of 1500m to the town of Zhangmu, the exit point to Nepal. Here the landscape is that of a rain forest. Zhangmu is probably the fastest changing town in Tibet as it is totally beyond my recognition. 22 years ago, it was also here that I had to exit Tibet to Nepal. I remembered having to climb down the mountain just to get the the "Friendship Bridge" and the houses there were 1 storey wooden building.
caption : This river seperate the 2 countries and this bridge is the way to Nepal
After clearing the orderly, stern looking and overly cautious Chinese immigration officers and police who would you check you against your passport again and again, we cross this "Friendship Bridge" over to Nepal side. We were greeted by the chaotic Nepali immigration who would not even look at you but readily chopped your passport for entry to Nepal. Somehow in the midst of all the chaos, we could sense the "release and freedom" in Nepal.
This ends our trip to Tibet. I did not include the time in Nepal as I find them really of a different culture and putting the picture here, I'll be adding chaos in this serene and beautiful thread. Maybe I'll do another short thread on Kathmandu later.
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Flora, Fauna and Wild Animals in Tibet.
Here are some random pictures of the flora, fauna and wild animals we met and encounter during the trip.
caption : This huge flowers was outside Palha Lu-puk cave temple
caption : Bar-headed geese - Zang Gyab Lukhang Park - Lhasa
caption : A purple blubell like flower along Yarlung Tsangpo River - Lhasa
caption : These silky cotton like plant was seen at the mountain trail in Ganden
caption : Nettle - Ganden.
Notice the thorns on the leaves? The sting by the thorns is very painful. Last time, a friend of mine pee on this plant and was stung by it. Imagine on the sensitive part. He had a hard time walking the next 3 days. However we found out that the antidote for the stung is alway not far away from this plant.